We have journeyed through the long marathon of fashion weeks — from Copenhagen to Milan — to finally arrive in Paris, where some of the most iconic brands are showcasing their new collections. One of the most anticipated shows was Saint Laurent.
Many modern creative directors are moving away from their fashion house’s original aesthetics, trying to showcase their own vision, often with mixed results. However, Anthony Vaccarello, who has led Saint Laurent for more than eight years, carefully preserves the brand’s heritage. This was evident in the FW24 collection, where he drew from Yves Saint Laurent’s 1968 iconic “nude” dresses. In the SS25 season, Vaccarello paid homage to the personal style of the brand’s founder.
The show started with masculine, oversized suits: models walked in double-breasted jackets with sharp shoulders, wide palazzo trousers, and striped shirts paired with bold ties. Some looks were completed with elegant long trench coats, leather jackets, and bombers. The color palette of the first segment consisted of earthy tones, greys, blues, and burgundy. Through these tailored yet feminine looks, Vaccarello emphasized the freedom and independence of modern women.
“No other fashion house is as closely associated with the female archetype as Saint Laurent. The Saint Laurent woman is not only idealized but also embraces her darker inclinations, her desire for risk and pleasure,” Vaccarello noted in his show’s notes.
The second half of the collection was inspired by the Moroccan aesthetics that Yves Saint Laurent often incorporated into his designs. For the brand’s founder, Africa held deep personal significance: it was his birthplace, and it became his final retreat.
Anthony Vaccarello paid tribute to this with pieces that featured vibrant color accents: brocade jackets, velvet mini skirts with draping and lace, transparent blouses with high collars and jabots, as well as shimmering Lurex mini dresses. Each successive outfit shimmered in shades of green, purple, pink, and blue, paying homage to the Moroccan influences that were so dear to Yves Saint Laurent’s heart.
This collection not only reflected the independence and strength of women but also preserved the brand’s aesthetic roots, drawing inspiration from its founder’s unique personal style.
