In Paris, the much-anticipated Haute Couture Week for Fall-Winter 2024/25 kicked off with the Schiaparelli show, setting a tone of exquisite craftsmanship and occasional whimsy typical of designers' creations.
Daniel Roseberry, the creative force behind Schiaparelli, chose an unconventional venue for the occasion, opting for the basement room of the Salomon de Rothschild hotel instead of the traditional setting at the Petit Palais museum. This decision bathed the runway in semi-darkness illuminated sporadically by lanterns, creating an even more magical and mysterious atmosphere.
Roseberry aptly named his collection "Phoenix," encapsulating the theme of rebirth. He aimed to reinterpret the iconic legacy of Elsa Schiaparelli, moving away from the mechanical children and calculators seen in previous shows. Reflecting on Schiaparelli, Roseberry described her as "incredibly free, shockingly free in her expression, unencumbered by conventions."
The show opened with a model clad in a black velvet cape adorned with massive luminous phoenix wing details draping over the shoulders. The subsequent looks included a draped gown with a deep thigh-high slit, alongside memorable pieces like a black maxi dress embellished with golden brass elements creating a scale effect, a bustier adorned with 3D spikes, and a set featuring an atlas jacket paired with a voluminous tulle skirt adorned with sequins.
"Every ensemble here is meant to evoke specific emotions—controlled emotions, to paraphrase Hemingway. Each dress, each bustier, each pair of shoes, each fold of velvet or triple spike of organza strives to captivate and hold attention," emphasized the designer.
Roseberry continued to play with silhouettes and forms, showcasing wide rounded shoulders, V-shaped necklines, and voluminous structural details, all reflecting the luxury and elegance inherent in Schiaparelli's legacy.
"Recently, I was told that 'people don't buy Schiaparelli pieces, they collect them.' Such dedication stems only from unique connections between the client and the creation," concluded Daniel Roseberry.
This presentation not only showcased exceptional craftsmanship and innovation in Haute Couture but also solidified Schiaparelli's position as a symbol of sophistication and boldness in the fashion world.
