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Jean Paul Gaultier: the ‘enfant terrible’ of the fashion world

Author: 
Evi P.
8. May 2024

The world of fashion knows many outstanding personalities who have made an invaluable contribution to its development, demonstrating its diversity and versatility. And among the thousands of names, Jean-Paul Gaultier – the designer who is called the ‘enfant terrible’ (‘bad boy’) of French fashion – stands out. In a career spanning 50 years, his inventiveness and out-of-the-box ideas led him to introduce many sensational inventions that subverted conventional ideas about clothing; to collaborate with prominent people from a wide range of fields, including Madonna; and to contribute to the promotion of gender norms and the health of the queer community.

In 2020, the designer stepped away from his eponymous Jean Paul Gaultier brand, but his creations continue to live on and inspire, and we still remember them today. Today, on Jean Paul Gaultier’s birthday, let’s remember his journey, creativity and exceptional designs.

Childhood and first fascination with fashion

Gaultier’s love for fashion began in his early years. He spent a lot of time with his grandmother, who influenced the origin of the guy’s passion for this case. Jean-Paul later said that his grandmother was more ‘curious’ than his mother, and it was thanks to her that he found inspiration for future creations. She allowed him to observe her counselling sessions to improve the health of local people and often advised people to refresh their wardrobe during the sessions, because clothes have a great influence on our condition as well. This is how Gaultier realised in his early years the role fashion can play in life. It was then that he became acquainted with corsets, which were plentiful in his grandmother’s wardrobe. It was they who later inspired the designer to create his iconic models.

Even then, the future fashion designer began sewing. At 13, he made an outfit for a toy bear Nana, among which was a cone-shaped bodice – a design that became one of the most iconic in Gaultier’s career. Subsequently, the boy presented the first collections of clothes for his mother and grandmother.

Work at Pierre Cardin

At the age of eighteen, without any professional education, Jean-Paul began to send his own sketches to French designers in the hope that they could hire him. So began the story of the guy with Pierre Cardin, who was the first to see his talent and arranged his assistant. After a year of work with the designer Jean-Paul took a break to work with Jean Patou, but later returned to Cardin. Thanks to this experience, the guy was able to compare the work of the two professionals and highlight for himself the main features that he would like to develop in his own projects. In 1974-1976 Gaultier already managed Pierre Cardin boutique in Manila and created women’s collections of the brand for the American market.

Founding his own brand

In 1976, together with his business partner Francis Menouge, who also became Jean Paul’s greatest love, the designer founded the eponymous brand Jean Paul Gaultier and presented the first collection. Since then, Gaultier has declared himself as a distinctive and innovative fashion designer who redefines traditional ideas of fashion. His creations stood out for their eccentricity and rebelliousness.

From the very beginning of his career, Gaultier was not afraid to go against the current and challenge established norms. His collections were often epathetic but delighted the public with their originality and boldness. He used unusual materials such as rubbish bags and tins, created provocative images that blurred gender boundaries and was not shy about breaking taboos.

Blurring gender boundaries

Gaultier is also known for his contribution to the blurring of gender boundaries in fashion. He repeatedly used male models in women’s clothing and vice versa, challenging traditional notions of what men and women wear.

One of the most famous examples of this was the ‘Et Dieu Créa l’Homme’ show in 1987, where men appeared on the catwalk in skirts, kilts and other elements of women’s wardrobe. This show became a real sensation and made many people think about stereotypes about gender and fashion.

Collaboration with Madonna

In 1990 Gaultier had the happy opportunity to collaborate with one of the most famous singers in the world – Madonna. He designed over 350 costumes for her for her ‘Blond Ambition’ world tour. These costumes, including the famous cone bra, have become iconic and have forever etched Gaultier’s name in pop culture history.

Influence on fashion

Gaultier’s influence on the fashion world can hardly be overestimated. He not only created many unforgettable collections, but also challenged established norms, blurred gender boundaries and inspired a new generation of designers. His work continues to inspire and delight people around the world, and Gaultier himself is rightly regarded as one of the greatest designers of the 20th century.

Final years

In 2020, Jean Paul Gaultier announced the end of his career. He said goodbye to fashion with a grand show in which he presented the best designs of his 50-year career. Although Gaultier no longer creates new collections, his work continues to live on and inspire. He has left us an invaluable legacy that will influence the fashion world for many years to come.

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