During his first appearance for Louis Vuitton in March 2014, Nicolas Ghesquière personally left notes for all the guests who attended the show. At the time, he wrote about the “incredible joy” of a new beginning. Last night, in similar letters spread throughout the roughly 4,000 seats for the huge number of invitees, he remarked, “This joy is still present.

After ten years, this evening is a new beginning.” The consonance of the two messages was coincidental. Nicolas Ghesquière was undoubtedly addressing the key works of his career at Louis Vuitton.

Despite how different his design language was, the references were spot on, even if the interpretations were ambiguous.

Jackets and blazers embroidered with metallised threads and embellished with stones were reminiscent of the surtouts from the designer’s spring 2018 collection, which he presented in the medieval section of the Louvre.

Shiny skirts that increased in size below the knees responded to the spring 2021 line, shown during Pandemic, when the audience-free presentation took place. And the asymmetrical edges of amazing fringed evening gowns recalled deconstructed models from the 2017 resort show in Rio.

Over the years, Nicolas Ghesquière has embodied the spirit of the French fashion house. This was evident in sculptural photo-printed mini dresses, as well as glamorous tracksuits and jackets with technological details.

 The latter also reflected his long-standing passion for science fiction.

All the elements of Nicolas Ghesquière’s work were present, and yet it was not nostalgic – only enjoyable.

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